Climbing:
Page 1 - My passion - Cunning plans - Videos
Page 2 - Photo gallery commentary
My passion:
I am a climber. I think there is a difference between someone who climbs and someone who is a climber - I'm definitely the latter. I've been climbing for 9 years, split by a 4 year break. During that time I've managed to climb quite a lot and explore quite a few places - and I hope to keep doing that.
Climbing has been quite tumultuous for me, taking into a wide spectrum of personal experiences including: discovering it, initial progression, exploration, psychological problems, finding different approaches, having it as a purpose in life, applying scientific methods to improve, progression, regression, obsession, pleasure and pain...
However, two things have been noticable in recent years: Firstly I notice - well, feel, really - how much I'm still learning (whether I'm trying to learn or not), and secondly I realise how much genuine inspiration and the actual experience of climbing matter to me. I think this is a sign of having a more stable and "truer" approach to climbing.
Out of mild curiosity, I've kept a computer record of routes I've failed to do both in the past and more recently - this record was a reaction to my feelings about being psychologically inhibited. I'm a bit more accepting of that now. Seems unduly negative? Don't worry, THIS lists the climbs I have done - I'm now part way through another notebook ;).
I'm also a bit of a veteran of the UKClimbing.com forums where I've made a nuisance of myself in the past including winding people up stunts like this, but on the other hand I've also written an article on NZ climbing, and an article about the E0 grade which unfortunately has the same reaction as the wind-ups, ho hum.
Cunning plans:
In recent years I've had the time and inclination to focus a lot on climbing and try really hard to progress in terms of confidence and overcome some difficulties I've had in the past. I've had mixed success with this, but have certainly ended up in some exciting states of mind. However this focus has tended to obsession and perhaps gone too far - I'll keep trying to progress and I'll keep valuing climbing experiences, but with less single-mindedness than before.
Of course, I'm still very inspired by lots of places and lots of climbs and will try to do as much as feasible. My current plans include the following venues - I'm often looking for people to explore these places so please get in touch if you're interested.
2007 Venue ticklist:
Pretty much in the order that I'm interested in both without and within the overall areas.
Contact me at fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk or 0114 2014482 or 07958 343645 if you wish to climb with me at any of these areas.
The Lakes: Burnt Crag, Dow Crag, Pavey Ark, Raven Crag Threshwaite, High Crag, Castle Crag.
Wales: Rhoscolyn, Carreg Hyll Drem, Llanymynech.
South West: Lower Sharpnose, Baggy Point, Torbay area, various West Penwith crags.
Scotland: Finnart's Point, Pass Of Ballater, Rosehearty, Creag Dhu, Polldubh, Glen Lednock, Duntelchaig.
Northumberland / North East: Armathwaite, South Yardhope, Simonside, Linshields.
Peak / Yorkshire: Baildon, Malham, Blue Scar, Stoney, Chee Tor, Ashop Edge, Simon's Seat
Videos:
A few videos of me climbing taken in the best inept amateur spirit. Don't expect Hard Grit, these done just for fun, often self-timer with the camera balanced on a bouldering mat / random pile of rocks / passing sheep =). These are now in MP4 format so should play fine with Quicktime or similar. Any problems or other feedback, email me.
Video of me climbing Love Handles at Stanage End, which is a brilliant easy problem. Check out the shadow climber, I didn't notice that when I first took the video, I was just trying to capture the evening light. Click on the image to pop-up a window with whatever media player you have assigned to .wmv files, OR right click / save target as... on the image to download (34 seconds / 3.6 meg).
Videos of me climbing High Speed Imp Act and the Mono Pocket Problem, both in the Churnet Valley (which is becoming increasingly and justifiably acclaimed for it's power bouldering). The former is a mega-classic of the area and was quite intimidating to me but turned out to be pretty steady. The latter, although short, has one of my favourite moves anywhere on it. Click on the image to pop-up a window with whatever media player you have assigned to .mp4 files, OR right click / save target as... on the image to download (38 seconds / 3.5 meg for HSIA, 14 seconds / 1.8 meg for Mono).
Video of me climbing the classic Duroxamine at Cuvier Rempart. This was my second attempt, alas I fell off a flash attempt because I didn't get my foot out smoothly enough. Cool problem, easy to work out the sequence from the ground. Check out the classic footwork later on ;). Click on the image to pop-up a window with whatever media player you have assigned to .mp4 files, OR right click / save target as... on the image to download (40 seconds / 3.3 meg).
Videos of me climbing a great little arete at Cuvier Rempart. Nothing too hard but just a perfect line. The right hand side is easier, this was my second go on it. The left hand side is a flash attempt and more entertaining :). Click on the image to pop-up a window with whatever media player you have assigned to .mp4 files, OR right click / save target as... on the image to download (33 seconds / 2.7 meg for left, 19 seconds / 1.6 meg for right).
