Fiend's Climbing Plan:
What?
Overall goals:
• Enjoy climbing, and be inspired by it, as much as possible.
• Maintain a standard where I can approach mid-grade routes confidently without regular practise.
• Climb some harder routes that specifically inspire me but are currently out of reach.
• Improve my psychology so I am have more confidence climbing.
Intermediary goals:
• Climb E2/3 5c regularly and confidently. Climb E3/4 6a on routes that are particularly inspiring and suitable for my style.
• Tackle mid-grade testpieces on gritstone (and elsewhere) without being put off by feeling intimidated.
• Try to fail on fewer routes and learn to cope with failure better - be more consistent.
• Organise myself better so I make the best use out of any potential climbing time.
• Apply the advice given by others (e.g. Dawes masterclass) and incorporate it into my climbing.
• Feel I am improving, progressing, and breaking free from my current plateau.
How?
General tactics:
• Have a more rigorous and scientific approach to climbing - TRY to improve, train and prepare, analyse climbing, learn from mistakes. Focus more on improvement and progression and various means to acheive that.
• Choose venues and climbing plans appropriate to conditions and season - don't try to "force" innappropriate plans.
• Try to have full, high quality climbing days out, rather than wasting time in inappropriate time/weather conditions.
• Build up a network of positive, reliable, and friendly climbing partners.
• Accept that leading standard will lag well behind physical / bouldering standard, and continue improving the latter to "drag" leading standard up with it.
• Try to get something positive and useful out of every day out even if it isn't a successful day.
• Train well for leading generally and for "project" routes, via relevantly similar bouldering and other training.
Leading:
• Try to lead at a certain standard all the time to stay acclaimatised to more difficult climbing. Currently: Lead only HVS and above (except desired classics), and lead at least 3 E-points per day.
• Be more determined to succeed on routes, even if it takes a lot of time and effort.
• Choose routes carefully according to inspiration, feeling, and general nature of the day.
• Prepare well with appropriate warming-up, resting, planning route, racking up well, discussing issues with belayer etc.
• Try to transfer any confidence gained from sport climbing trips to leading above good protection.
Bouldering:
• Do a lot more bouldering as training, to get accustomed to the rock and train relevant physical demands. And because it's really fun.
• Choose bouldering as a way to have a good day out when routes aren't appropriate.
• Boulder relevantly - try to flash as many problems as possible, don't give up and jump off too easily.
• Relish higher problems above a mat to simulate the "safe but scary" feel.
• Explore new areas to get fresh technical challenges as well as mileage.
• Try to leave each session with at least some skin left on fingertips...
Soloing:
• Avoid excessive soloing as a regular habit as the specific confidence needed, and gained, reduces confidence leading harder moves.
• Stick to soloing particularly desired routes when the time is appropriate.
Wall training:
• Continue regular wall training, too much strength has never caused problems.
• Try to train much needed stamina as often as motivation and inherent tedium will allow.
• Focus on relevant types of problem / route, i.e. poor holds on less steep ground, rather than overhanging ladders.
• Focus on climbing in a relevant style, i.e. flashing routes and problems, and climbing slowly and carefully.
• Avoid getting injured.
Other training:
• Take appropriate rest days to let muscles, and particularly, skin heal.
• Do *something*, however little, to maintain fitness. Currently: Swimming and not shying away (much) from mid-length walk-ins.
• Train lightly down the gym to balance muscle usage whilst avoid excessive straining sessions.
