Updates 2003:
Testing... 21/12/03
So yeah. Nearly Christmas. Forgive me if I don't join in all the overhyped bullshit heart-warming festivities. A quiet family Christmas is planned, although we will decorate the remaining dog, of course =). And around that I hope to climb as much as possible - why not hey?
New photo posted. Quite a nice one I think. This was from one of a few really good days out climbing recently - great crisp winter weather, good company, and some great climbs. It seems my idea of bouldering a lot to get used to climbing gritstone might be working, I've done a few more challenging (and highly enjoyable!) routes recently, and felt fairly comfortable with the rock. Still requires a lot of committment, which I struggle to summon, but the moves are feeling more natural. Progress eh. Hope it continues as it's really fun.
That's all for now. Pretty quiet time in general. I'm sure I had something else to ramble about, but I forgot it 
.
[Vibes - a bit bored today]
[Music - Panacea - Twisted Designz (Position Chrome)]
[Media - Return Of The King tomorrow, yay!]
[Reading - not much, got bored of the book I'm reading]
[Climbing - with a rare display of confidence]
[Loving - this and that]
[Hating - the other stuff]
Testing... 08/12/03
Firstly. To anyone who just wants to moan about this being a personal website: Don't read it, and piss off 
.
Secondly. Some new photos. A pretty mad one of Sheffield under an ominous smog, and a few photos (indicated by smaller thumbnails) that are a bit low quality but I think are interesting images. As always comments on the worth of these photos, or other aspects of the site, are welcome.
And the usual bloggy stuff: Had a week off climbing, a sort of retrospective rest week in that as each day passed and I didn't organise anything, I consolled myself that it was a rest day. Boring. Back with a vengence this week with 3 wall sessions, a Peak day out, and yet another fantastic expedition with the ever-karmic Dan to Yorkshire - Earl Crag this time. Really enjoying those trips, so much good bouldering up there.
Aside from that, the usual shit. Playing my first Mech games, having finished Unreal2. Pretty fun. Still not painting any damn figures though. I really should get around to that, very satisfying to actually finish them. Anyone want an apathy transplant??
[Vibes - not bad thanks]
[Music - Loftgroover presents: Speedcore (seriously hard gabber 
, fuelled a long sesh at the Leeds wall)]
[Media - Mechwarrior 4 & Mechcommander 2]
[Reading - Calvin & Hobbes....love it =)]
[Climbing - without sweating furiously....winter....mmm...]
[Loving - confident bouldering]
[Hating - less confident routing]
Testing... 22/11/03
I'm bruised and battered. I feel like I've been given a sound beating with a big stick. My arms ache, all over. My back aches. My legs ache, a little bit. My muscles still feel shakey. My fingertips are tender and tingling. I think it will be a while before I recover full feeling in my right thumb tip.
Yup, it was a good day bouldering at Almscliff =).
Good weather (albeit a little sweaty for me), good company, peaceful vibes. I climbed Pebble Wall, which I'd previously thought was beyond me but I unlocked it's technical subtleties. My partner discovered some good projects to keep working on over winter. I wore right through my fingertape for the first time ever, and found a pair of cut-off shorts which I'll wear down the wall. Nice. On the subject of walls, I had a good session down the wall the day before, doing routes for a change which I'm usually to lazy to do. Found several nasty slopey things and got a satisfying pump going. All of which compensates nicely for a slothful start to the week.
Edit: Just had another nice day at Shipley Glen. Sorta updating behind time here. Ignore that.
A couple of things that could vaguely be classified as "of interest" in this update. Firstly a couple of new photos, which were taken from the aforementioned Almscliff on two seperate days. Not really capturing the delightfully serene and bleak atmosphere with the digital camera, any suggestions or comments would be gratefully received.
Secondly I had another article posted on UKClimbing recently, about the infamous E0 grade (read the article if you don't understand). Predictably it got the usual tiresome hate-filled reaction (although I think the "contest" between the pair of articles should have been set up a lot better). Equally predictably I am still bemused by the outright hostility that such an idea receives, as if it really is something terrible and destructive. Lets us consider the general morality of some ideas related to climbing:
Lying about ascents - bad
Removing all grades and ratings from guidebooks - bad
Chipping off crucial holds - bad
Giving dangerous false information to try to hurt others - bad
Stealing in-situ protection - bad
Throwing rocks down onto climbers ascending routes - bad
Inventing a simple new grade to improve grading routes - bad?!?!?!
Hmmmmm... I did note that one well respected member of the forum suggested that people get so irate about the E0 idea because it's actually quite hard to argue against (well, I should bloody well hope so after the effort and thought I've put in). In that case, why not take the obviously sensible route and accept that it's got some merit?? Or would that be just too much for the pig-headed dogmatists??
And in the media: I've started playing Unreal 2 which is fairly fun and graphically impressive but also quite shallow and inconsistent and not a patch on the excellent original which it isn't related to... I went to the cinema for the first time in ages and saw the two Matrix sequels (good, stylish sci-fi action, great spectacles but marred by cheese and pretensiousness and needed sharper editing) and Kill Bill Vol1 (good entertainment and nice main character but again should have been put together somewhat tighter)... And my enthusiastic linking to SexyLosers [NWS] paid off, as Ms. Fiend found it and spend a few hours reading through the archives, I think she liked it =).
[Vibes - generally good]
[Music - Various - Paranoia / Mixed by Raiden (again - heavy CD!)]
[Media - Unreal 2 and the Matrix films]
[Reading - latest White Dwarf]
[Climbing - yes please]
[Loving - climbing with nice people]
[Hating - not climbing with Ms. Fiend]
Testing... 15/11/03
Wh00p. New PC has arrived, perfectly timed with some rank weather =). <dickwaving> P4 2.8Ghz, 1 Gb Ram, 120 Gb HDD, 256Mb Radeon 9800 Pro, 19'' flat CRT, cordless keyboard & mouse </dickwaving>. And it has funky coloured lights in the case, what more could one ask for. Thankfully it's working pretty much okay, just a couple of minor problems with very occasional graphical corruption, and it not always shutting down on request (any ideas about those issues, please email me and I'd be grateful). Otherwise, yeah, it's cool, I'm happy with it, got my internet connection swapped over, and various files transfered simply by reconnecting the second HDD from my old PC (which amazingly worked very easily). All that remains is to play around and get good use out of it - games and DVDs here we come!
Was down in the big smoke for a couple of days: Mama Fiend BA Hons had her graduation ceremony after getting a 2:1 in History Of Art. Very cultured but none of it has rubbed off on me. Even so it brought the warm glow of vicarious pride to my cold black heart =). Had a nice meal and some shopping afterwards, which is all good fun, but I don't see the purpose in London. Too crowded, too oppressive, too bloody expensive, and it's left me with a feeling of general uncleanliness. Still, the shopping and choice of restaurants is pretty good.
That's all for now. Sorry for another bloggy update, might have more to say next time.
[Vibes - smug]
[Music - Various - Paranoia / Mixed by Raiden (Renegade Hardware)]
[Media - Well...]
[Reading - Anselm Audley - Heresy]
[Climbing - in this weather you must be bloody joking]
[Loving - my new toy]
[Hating - how much the toy cost]
Testing... 04/11/03
*Yawn*
Another period of vague apathy and poor organisation. I must stop doing that. I had a vague plan to ignore the hour changing to Extra Dark And Miserable British Winter Time and stick with getting up and going to bed extra early, to make good use out of the daylight. That seems to have made me quite tired and confused.
Little going on aside from some general climbing training. I've spent quite a while writing, in a notebook, all of my desired gritstone routes and what practise and preparation I need for them. All part of the gameplan, writing similar notes helped me on some sport routes in New Zealand. I'm under no illusions about how much harder trad climbing, and gritstone especially, is, but I think such ideas are worth a try.
However, I've had some nice times out bouldering recently, at The Bridestones and Widdop, with two very positive and entertaining climbing friends. It's quite noticable how you can get a good supportive atmosphere with the right people. Plus it's great going to new venues and having such a wide choice of problems to try. I'm like a kid in a sweetshop when I arrive =).
To vaguely justify a non-update, I've written up my climbing destination tick-list for 2004. Good to keep these ideas in mind and keep inspired, I feel.
[Vibes - mildly bored]
[Music - Biosphere - Shenzou]
[Media - still waiting for the damn new PC]
[Reading - Eric J Hörst - Training For Climbing]
[Climbing - mostly on small lumps of rock]
[Loving - energy]
[Hating - apathy]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 24/10/03
Apparently the climbing video worked for most people which is surprising and pleasing. Now I have to work on recording something remotely interesting =). Someone suggested the rehearsed nature was a bit....sterile. So maybe recording an onsight climbing attempt would be cool.
I ordered a new computer today, I've only been meaning to upgrade for two years now and finally had to bite the bullet. Hell, I'm running out of 2 year old games to play. Now I'm in the usual state of vague fear and apprehension as to whether I've chosen the right thing and can get it working okay. Despite the facade of competence, I'm fairly inept with computers.
I've discovered that Aftershock is truly delicious. I hardly drink and am not at all into trendy alcoholic bollox....but I tried this out of mild curiosity, and it's lovely, leaves my mouth all tingly. Ef complains it tastes like cough medicine. I like cough medicine.
I've been getting well into dark ambient music recently. Eerie, rumbling, droning, atmospheric stuff, minimal but oppressive. Acts like R|A|A|N, Inade, and most recently Nordvargr, whose 'Awaken' CD was recommended as "the most evile dark-amb ever", and indeed it is very good. I've found Coldspring records to be a good source of such music in the UK, although they are slow dispatching orders.
Someone has accused this site of being a blog ( = weblog = online diary). I'd like to strongly deny this and would indeed do so if it weren't for the fact of it being true. Despicable, I know. The original purpose of this site was to post photos but I couldn't resist updating with personal and pointless drivel. Heh.
[Vibes - fine thanks]
[Music - Nordvargr - Awaken]
[Media - waiting till new PC arrives]
[Reading - hopefully writing actually, more cunning plans]
[Climbing - quarried grit]
[Loving - fingery holds]
[Hating - sore finger tips]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 22/10/03
Climbing stuff. As promised. A few things: A video of me puntering around. A photo of me puntering around. A collection of barely coherent words attempting to describe what I'm trying to do with my puntering. Ah, the excitement. Still, it might be mildly entertaining. If anyone has any comments (including issues with the video), please email at the address below.
Well, my girl Ef is leaving for a week's work trip to Morocco tomorrow, so I'm apparently trusted to be on my own. Yeah right. I should really start painting some lead figures now the weather is getting dodgier. I've only been neglecting that hobby for a year and a half now =/.
[Vibes - okay]
[Music - The Redeemer - Hardcore Owes Us Money (collaboration between Panacea & DJ Scud, nuff said)]
[Media - Black & White PC game]
[Reading - The latest White Dwarf mag]
[Climbing - Down the Matrix wall, blah]
[Loving - dry cold weather]
[Hating - unforecasted bad weather]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 18/10/03
Blech. Another fairly unproductive day. Can't climb as I need to let my fingertips recover after a sound spanking session at Brimham yesterday. So as usual I haven't disciplined myself to do much that's useful....nor for that matter that's fun. Ah well. I've just put a Safeway Cornish Pastry Plait (they are delicious) in the oven, so life is looking better =). Mmmm, food.
Gardening sucks. The only time I can put up with it is when I am destroying stuff. Unfortunately today I destroyed my hedge-trimmer, which somewhat defeats the object, as it was one of my main destroyers of stuff itself. I still have a chainsaw left, though.
A little more on the UKC forum madness. After two weeks or so of discovering how tediously frustrating people can be, conversely I am now meeting - and climbing with - some properly nice people from there. You know who you are if you're reading this, thanks, it's putting things in perspective. But one last little bit of rantage: Last time I highlighted "That when I show someone is posting something wrong about me, they disappear and don't answer me nor do the decent thing and apologise.", well I've got a fair example of that here. Some guy makes some accusations about me, but steadfastly refuses to back them up when I try to find out what the hell he's talking about. Don't need to add anything more to that.
I've put a new digital photo up. Scroll down the page to view it below the dognose one, because it is in fact an older digital photo but I wanted to get permission before posting it. On the subject of photos, thanks to all the people on UKC who informed me that mysterious bug was a ladybird larva, which is cool. All that remains is to set up camp at High Tor until I can get a good photo =).
Next time I might have something more in the climbing section *gasp* SHOCK HORROR etc. It will still be self-centric drivel though, don't worry =).
P.S. The Safeway Cornish Pastry Plait was as tasty as last time. My girl Ef said they're obviously for two people not one, though...
[Vibes - on the up]
[Music - J Majik - Nightvision compilation]
[Media - nought]
[Reading - Anselm Audley - Heresy (new book, start of a fantasy trilogy)]
[Climbing - a bit better on grit]
[Loving - tea time!]
[Hating - wasting time]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 14/10/03
<RANT>
I've been getting a lot of shit on UKClimbing forums in the last couple of weeks, after posting some topics asking questions, or prompting discussion, about climbing issues. This is probably the most sustained batch of Fiend-abuse I've received, and I am fed up with it. At least I can write about it here - if I write anything there, even a simple request for tolerance, I will get more shit for it. Lose/lose. Of course, some vindictive sod will probably link to this to try to cause me more hassle, but I stand more of a chance.
I could write about lots of issues. That I'm getting shit for posting climbing discussion topics on a climbing discussion forum. That people are so bloody narrowminded they have a fit of hysterics anytime anyone posts a different view to the "party line". That people are so perversely belligerent, they can't even answer a simple question nor follow a polite request. That few people seem able to think outside the box, take things at face value, and think about what they are doing. That a fair amount of the shit I'm getting is from anons/semi-anons who don't seem to have contributed positively to any climbing discussion. That when I show someone is posting something wrong about me, they disappear and don't answer me nor do the decent thing and apologise.
But there are two more striking aspects:
The bandwagon jumping - when one person posts something disagreeable towards me, everyone jumps on the bandwagon and starts posting shit. Anons crawl out of the gaps, seemingly sane and sensible posters can't resist a quick dig, people who might agree with me fade into the distance so not to get tarnished by association. The crowd/gang mentality. Just like bullying in the school playground - you see a bunch of kids picking on another kid, so to make sure you're cool and you fit in and you won't get picked on yourself, you join in with, irrespective of what you really think. Of course, this is adults we're talking about, which brings me on to:
I expected a hell of a lot better - from climbers, from UKC contributors. I've got the impression that climbers were generally a bit unusual, a bit free thinking, a bit open-minded. Which is why we're climbing not sitting on our arses watching football and drinking Heineken and reading Hello. And the impression that UKC users were pretty smart on average, I see enough very clever postings and debates. So I'm disappointed that so many people have sunk so low to mindlessly harass someone without demonstrating the ability to think that seemed a feature of UKC in general. I expected too much, evidently.
And of course, people can object:
"But you bring it upon yourself". No. I'm just posting about climbing topics. With one exception recently which I have apologised for, I'm not posting anything offensive, or antagonistic, or harassing. In fact I've taken great care to phrase most of my posts in a neutral and discussion-encouraging way. If people can't tolerate a slightly different opinion and discuss it civilly, without snide comments, parodies, complaining etc, that is their fault.
"But it's only an internet forum". No. I don't buy the 'internet is not real' idea. It's just a different way of communicating - in person, by phone, by letter, by email, by internet. It's an aspect of real interaction, not something entirely seperate. For what it's worth, UKC has created climbing partnerships, friendships, regular social gatherings, and several relationships. In my view, it *does* matter.
"But you should just leave then". No. I like discussing climbing issues (and occasionally other entertaining issues) - it's an activity I dearly love and I like communicating about it, and UKC is the best place to do that in the UK. Even after the recent period, for all the shit I get, there's always someone who can see through that and post something interesting, there's always something worth reading and discussing.
Soooo....so nothing really. I had to write that, somewhere where my view won't get shouted down. Next update, abnormal service will resume.
</RANT>
[Vibes - peaceful after climbing]
[Music - Inade - Crackling Of The Anonymous (again)]
[Media - thinking about upgrading my PC]
[Reading - not started a new book yet]
[Climbing - Staffs Flyer B6, The Roaches (classic!)]
[Loving - intelligence]
[Hating - idiocy]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 08/10/03
Whoop an update.
Some new pictures here. Not very exciting but a nice one of a slug.
Someone pointed out that I should have a warning about the SexyLosers link I've put amongst the misc debris. Given that it's the only comic I've seen with a long running story about necrophilia, I think that's fair. So it's Not Work Safe (or School Library Safe or Parent Safe or whatever). Also be warned that it will make no sense if you just read the latest strips, with various concurrent stories you need to start at the start.
Someone else liked the DOGNOSE! picture so it's only fair to recommend you go to Dognoses.com for more dognose pictures than you know what to do with. BTW, I'd seen that site ages before I accidentally took my picture.
And some others remarked that my climbing suckage list was rather big and should be perhaps thrown away entirely. Good point, I do overreact to failures in my climbing, it's one thing I'm working on. Although that list is only one side of the coin, the other being a rather posh notebook listing everything I've actually done. So it's not all negative.
Bug report: What the hell is this? It was wandering around a tree trunk at High Tor a few weeks back, bright lemon yellow with black spots, body and legs like an insect, but soft looking flesh and "tail" like a grub or something. Any ideas? Unfortunately the damn thing wouldn't stay still, I'd have loved a proper photo.
[Vibes - mild headache]
[Music - Terrordrome V (excellent gabber comp)]
[Media - Quake custom levels]
[Reading - not enough]
[Climbing - enjoying cold weather bouldering in the Peak]
[Loving - feeling strong]
[Hating - feeling like my head's in a vice]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 06/10/03
So the weekend was a washout. North Wales Rocktalk picnic thing. Made a very last minute decision to go along. Mildly entertaining to see some of the RT crew and meet an old friend Ali again. Less entertaining driving around on Saturday fleeing showers and getting fed-up with it all (cheers for being stoical, Steve). Sunday I just drove home as it honked it down, popped into Pex Hill on the way and climbed two boulder problems before the rain caught up. Ah well.
However I managed to salvage something before and after that debacle. Before - an afternoon in the majestic, the magnificent, the should-be-mandatory Wilton 1 (okay okay, but I love the place so far =)). Did one good route, Paradox, seconded a couple of others, and then my partner kindly informed me he had to bugger off early. Why he couldn't have mentioned this before the day or at least when we met, I don't know. Shoddy etiquette. Anyway, hung around, saw a guy shunting, got chatting and thus lead another route - Wipeout, excellent - and belayed him on another as it was getting dark. Really made my evening that. After - when I got home it was dry in the Peak so headed out for a bit of bouldering. Did the Walnut which I hadn't quite managed before, and went to the square block where it was farkin' icy in the wind (yay, proper conditions!) and did a great little B6. Which was nice.
So that's it, probably the last away trip for a while unless some exceptional combination of weather and opportunity arises. Thus it's the season to try to learn not to suck on grit. Yeah right *rolls eyes*...
[Vibes - pensive....wondering what to do now]
[Music - Inade - The Crackling Of The Anonymous (excellent dark ambient)]
[Media - too much Rocktalk =)]
[Reading - Alistair Reynolds - Redemption Ark]
[Climbing - couple more routes in Wilton - yay!]
[Loving - not pouring with sweat while climbing]
[Hating - not much]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Updates:
Testing... 01/10/03
Hello....if anyone is visiting =). Random Fiend personal site online. More a depository of things that may occasionally be of interest than a dispensary of regular wisdom. At the moment, some of my digital photos (close-up insect shots are my current fetish) and some pictures of my lead figures (which I hopefully will paint some more this winter) and a couple of maybe entertaining links in the climbing sectionette. Coming soon, a couple more pictures. *gasp*.
Anyway I am in a slightly despondent mood as I've been out and failed on yet another grit route that was well within my physical capabilities. Warmed up well, planned the route well, really wanted to do it....and my head fucked me up YET AGAIN. *sigh*.
P.S. Sorry for the stupid website address. It is all Blueyonder's fault who, despite how much I'm paying them a month, cannot provide a remotely palatable URL. And that some inferior being has already taken the alias "Fiend". *sigh*.
[Vibes - disappointed]
[Music - DJ Ink mix from DNBA]
[Media - Black & White PC game]
[Reading - Black & White manual]
[Climbing - just as badly on grit =(]
[Loving - my dinner (a mess of pork mince, leek, sage, ginger etc...)]
[Hating - my head]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
Testing... 29/09/03
Site now online....just about....after fucking up my Blueyonder FTP set-up whilst tinkering with all the superfluous folders they put into user directories. Thankfully now the folders are gone and this works. Will tinker with it a bit before opening...
[Vibes - a bit miffed]
[Music - DKay mix from DNBA]
[Media - some game demos recently]
[Reading - Alistair Reynolds - Redemption Ark]
[Climbing - badly on grit]
[Loving - dark drum'n'bass]
[Hating - dark nights]
Fiend | fiendophobia [at] yahoo [dot] co [dot] uk
